Storing coins and metal objects at home
Metal objects are damaged by three things and almost nothing else: touching each other, sitting in damp air, and being kept in soft plastic. Fix those and a shoebox outperforms an expensive album. What follows costs very little and is the difference between a collection that stays as it is and one that quietly degrades.

Enemy one: contact
Loose coins in a jar grind against each other every time the jar moves. Badges scratch the enamel of their neighbours, which is exactly the part that carries the look. The rule is simple: one piece, one compartment. Cardboard holders, paper envelopes, coin capsules, a tray with individual cells – any of them works, and all of them beat a shared container.
- Never carry a single good piece loose in a pocket or wallet – one day costs a visible level of wear.
- Do not stack heavy albums on top of each other; pressure transfers marks through pages.
- Work over a soft cloth so a dropped coin does not pick up rim damage.
Enemy two: moisture
Damp air drives corrosion, and it works slowly enough that most people notice only when green spots appear. Keep a collection in the living part of the home, not a cellar, an attic or an unheated garage, where temperature swings condense moisture onto cold metal. A closed box with a silica gel sachet is enough for most collections; the sachet needs replacing or drying periodically to keep working. Avoid storing metal next to outside walls and away from bathrooms and kitchens.
Enemy three: the wrong plastic
Soft, flexible plastic – the kind that smells and bends easily – releases plasticiser over the years. On coins it leaves a green haze; on paper it marks the ink. Inert materials do not: polyester, polypropylene and polyethylene, along with plain card and acid-free paper. If a sleeve is stiff and odourless it is probably fine; if it is soft, glossy and pliable, keep it away from anything you value. The same rule applies to paper items, as described in the guide to storing a paper collection.
Handling
- Hold coins by the edge and badges by their rim or backing – skin oils etch into metal over time.
- Do not talk directly over a piece while examining it closely; droplets leave spots.
- Do not clean, polish or lacquer anything. Lacquer is irreversible and a coated coin is described as such forever, which is covered in the guide to cleaning old coins.
- Keep award and enamelled pieces separate from plain metal: enamel chips against harder surfaces.
A setup that costs almost nothing
- Cardboard holders or paper envelopes, one item each, labelled in pencil on the envelope – never on the object.
- A rigid box that closes, kept in a room you actually heat.
- A silica gel sachet inside, replaced when it stops working.
- A soft cloth on the desk for handling sessions.
- Photographs of each piece as a record, taken the way described in the guide to photographing a collection.
Why it is worth the trouble
On common material condition decides nearly everything, and storage is the only part of condition still under your control – everything else already happened. The open archive holds 855 Soviet coins and 3,332 badges, and browsing them shows the full range: even, honest surfaces on pieces that were kept apart, and scratched fields and chipped enamel on pieces that were not.
Open the sections: coins and banknotes, badges.
Quick answers
What damages coins most at home?
Contact with other coins, damp air and soft PVC sleeves.
Is a shoebox good enough?
Yes, if each piece is separated, the box closes and the room is heated and dry.
Which plastics are safe?
Stiff, odourless polyester, polypropylene or polyethylene. Never soft, pliable PVC.
Should I lacquer a coin to protect it?
No. Lacquer is irreversible and permanently changes how the coin is described.